Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Me at the basketball court of Comuna 13 next to Medellín graffiti art
Located in western Medellín along the mountainside above the San Javier Metro Station, is one of the city’s 16 communes: Comuna 13. Different from the others, Comuna 13 is unique in its history and special in its colors, people, and transformation.
A community once plagued with cartel activity, guerilla groups, and violence in what was considered the world’s most dangerous city in the 1980s and ‘90s, was awarded City of the Year in 2013 by Citi in partnership with the Wall Street Journal. The difference 30 years make. Those 30 years, however, were not easy.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - La Escombrera
In October 2002, the controversial Colombian military operation called, Operación Orión, sought to end the presence of guerilla groups and paramilitaries in Comuna 13. This left many people, including civilians, arrested, injured, missing, and dead. Their bodies were dumped in La Escombrera. The pit is found in the highest parts of Comuna 13 and is said to be the largest in Latin America.
While today Comuna 13 is a vibrant place that attracts thousands of tourists at any given moment, it began as a community self-built by immigrants and displaced people looking for a way and desperate for a better life.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Operación Orión graffiti art
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Graffiti art of Colombian woman and national flag
Comuna 13 has evolved from its origins and is now a place where bullet holes have been covered by beautiful graffiti art, illegal activities replaced by talented freestyle artists and Hip-Hop dance performances, and a metrocable car and six outdoor escalators that provide a convenient means for residents to get around and offers the accessibility for tourists to experience it all.
How did I learn about Comuna 13? It began when I was looking for experiences in Medellín and came across a tour of the commune on Airbnb Experiences. Before this, I hadn’t read or heard about it. After doing a brief research, I decided to book the tour with Big Tours, a company owned and operated by locals.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Sculpture inside San Javier Metro Station
On the afternoon of my reservation, I was the only booking. This resulted in a private tour with my guide, Sebastián.
The tour covered 3 out of the 19 barrios within Comuna 13: Barrios 20 de Julio and Las Independencias (Independencia 1 & 2). Included in my tour was the guide, transportation between San Javier Metro Station and Comuna 13, a metrocable car ride to the mirador in Barrio Juan XXIII, a walking tour of 20 de Julio and Las Independencias, traditional Colombian foods, and admission into Casa Neón.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Don serving me a guarapo at his local business
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Me at Cremas Doña Consuelos eating a paleta de mango
Barrio 20 de Julio is where the walking tour began and when I experienced the palpable pulse of the community. The local businesses were thriving, music was blasting, children were playing, and live performances captured the audience of residents and tourists, alike.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Me in front of the outdoor escalators
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Me at the mirador of La Independencia 2
I moved around using the escalators and pathways, a project that opened up to Comuna 13 and its residents in 2011, as a convenient way for residents to get from point A to point B and easily access the city’s center. It has been extremely helpful and a model for urban planning worldwide.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Phoenix graffiti art at Casa Neón
One of the tour’s fun features was Casa Neón. It is a gallery located in the middle of Comuna 13 showcasing glow-in-the-dark graffiti with a huge painting of a phoenix as one of its centerpieces. It’s a true representation of the resilient people of Comuna 13. Rising from the ashes: smarter, stronger, and more powerful.
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Staircase that divides barrios Las Independencias
When I reached Barrio Independencia 2, I met two talented local rap artists who freestyled for me. I loved it!
Comuna 13 in Medellín, Colombia - Sebastián and I with Comuna 13 as our background
My tour ended with Sebastián and I taking this picture of Comuna 13 as our background. And, although, the tour is behind me now, it will be an experience and memory I will cherish forever.
What did you like the most? Are you excited about visiting Comuna 13?
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Until the next adventure,
-Natali-
Photos and videos are owned by the author Natali Martinez
First published on March 7, 2021